Learn about kimono

Discover the rich history and artistry of traditional Japanese kimono.

What is a kimono?
How to pick the right kimono (for the right occasion)
Types of kimono
Further reading

What is a kimono?

A kimono is a traditional Japanese garment and an icon of Japanese culture. It is a T-shaped garment that is wrapped around the body and held in place with belts and a sash (known as an obi).

The term ‘kimono’ (meaning ‘thing to wear’) came into common usage during the Meiji era (1868 to 1912). It arose in response to the need to differentiate Western-style clothing (yofuku) from Japanese-style clothing (wafuku). While the term originally encompassed many different types of clothing, it now refers to the specific robe we think of as a kimono. The kimono itself was descended from an earlier garment known as a kosode. The kosode was of a similar t-shirt style construction but had smaller sleeve openings.

Kimono are made from a bolt of cloth, known as a tanmono. The bolt, which is approximately 12 metres long and 35-40cm wide, is cut into 8 pieces that are sewn together to form the kimono.

While they differ in style and composition, kimono are worn by both men and women – and even children. Although since the late nineteenth century kimono has been more commonly associated with women.

How to pick the ‘right’ kimono

Kimono are generally seasonal and their composition, decoration and use are governed by a complex set of rules. These rules determine how and when a kimono is worn for different occasions at different times of the year according to the time, place and occasion (referred to more colloquially as TPO).

This complexity means that many Japanese people may rarely wear kimono and may only wear one on very special occasions. Most modern kimono fall into the category of haregi – that is, formal wear. (Whereas, fudangi – or everyday wear has mostly been replaced with Western dress).

Even at formal events or ceremonies, kimono may be hired, along with the services of a professional kimono dresser (a Kitsuke-shi). To be worn correctly kimono also requires a number of traditional undergarments and accessories.

The art of selecting the components of a kimono outfit and its accessories, and dressing correctly is known as kitsuke and you can be formally trained and accredited in this skill.

But even without formal training, there are a number of standards that can be applied when choosing kimono pattens and accessories to create a successful outfit.

Formality

Key to the success of dressing correctly is understanding the different levels of kimono formality. Kimono can be formal, semi-formal or casual and this classification helps determine which kimono should be worn to which type of event.

Different levels of formality are expressed by the selection of accessories and by the fabrics, patterns, structures and colours of the kimono itself. Not to mention the presence, number and position of family crests. Examples of expressions of formality include:

· Fabric type: Formal kimono tend to use shiny, glossy dyed silks, while informal kimono tend to use unglossed silks (such as tsumugi) and other types of fabric, including cotton, wool or even synthetics.

· Pattern: Generally speaking, the more prevalent the pattern the less formal the kimono.

· Colour: While in the past, certain colours, such as red and purple were reserved for royalty, in the modern era the key distinction is between black and other colours. A black ground colour is the most formal, such as used for the most formal women’s kimono, the kurotomesode (black with a patten that runs seamlessly around the hem).

· Family crests (mon): The presence or otherwise of crests is the easiest way to tell if a kimono is formal – if it features a crest, it is considered formal. The more crests, the higher it sits within the formality hierarchy. There are approximately 400 different official family crests, but this number rises to several thousand when you include variations.

Types of kimono

Different types of kimono fall into a hierarchy based on their level of formality. This list sits roughly in order from least formal to most formal (although there are numerous exceptions).

Yukata

A Yukata is a casual, unlined cotton kimono, traditionally featuring navy blue patterns on white. It is commonly worn in summer at festivals and gives the impression of being fresh and cool. This kimono is worn with a hanhaba or heko obi and geta (wooden sandles).

Tsumugi

This woven kimono is considered casual and is suitable for daily wear and activities such as visiting friends, shopping or travelling.

Tsumugi also refers to a type of silk that uses lower grade silk cocoons with shorter fibres. In the past, tsumugi was often hand-spun and produced in cottage industries all over Japan. The resulting fabric is rougher and with less lustre than the higher grade silks, but it has an enduring and subtle charm that remains popular and fashionable today.

Regardless of the name, not all Tsumugi kimono are made of tsumugi silk, but can be made from cotton or wool. It is worn with the Nagoya or hoso obi.

Komon

This more casual kimono is covered all over in small delicate, repeating designs. Sometimes the pattern will be so subtle as to appear as a single colour from a distance. Komon kimono can be made from rinzu, chirimen or tsumugi, while the patterns can be woven, stencil dyed or yuzen depending on the type of fabric.

Komon may be worn with the Nagoya or hoso obi depending on the occasion. Without crests, this kimono is suitable for more casual occasions such as visiting, shopping or seeing friends. These kimono were very popular in the Edo period.

Tsukesage

This semi-formal kimono is defined by how it is decorated and is similar to the more formal homongi. Patterns are applied asymmetrically at the hemline in the front and back and may rise to include the left shoulder. More elaborate designs may be worn on formal occasions with the inclusion of a crest at the back. Tsukesage is worn with a fukuro or Nagoya obi.

This kimono’s key difference from the homongi is that the patterns are placed discreet to each panel. This makes the tsukesage easier to construct than the homongi, where the patterns deliberately sweep seamlessly across the panels (even though the placement of patterning is similar).

Iromuji

A single-coloured kimono made from figured satin (rinzu), crepe (chirimen) or tsumugi silk. The decoration on iromuji kimono is subtle and beautiful, and can feature many different designs.

With a single crest at the back this kimono is worn on formal occasions and can be worn by both single or married women. It is worn formally with a fukuro obi or more informally with the Nagoya obi. A muted tone iromuji can also be worn to funerals with the appropriate black accessories.

Mofuku

Mofuku refers to mourning wear and generally refers to a plain black silk kimono with 5 crests. Accessories, including obi, obijime and sandles should be black.

Homongi

Literally, ‘visiting wear’ this is a semi-formal kimono suitable for weddings, tea ceremonies and holidays. Decoration is applied continuously across the seams that gives an elegant and refined effect. To achieve this, the bolt is first provisionally sewn together into a kimono before the decoration is applied, taken apart, dyed and resewn.

Homongi can be worn by both single and married women and is worn with a fukuro obi.

Furisode

A gorgeous formal kimono with long sleeves (up to just over a metre) worn by young, single women. This kimono tends to feature elaborate designs and exquisite blended colours that flow across the seams and may be complemented by hand painting, gold leaf and embroidery.

The furisode is worn with a fukuro obi and colourful accessories that emphasise youth and beauty. This kimono is worn at graduation or coming of age ceremonies and formal events.

Tomesode

There are 2 types of tomesode:

Kurotomesode - a formal black kimono with 5 family crests and luxurious decoration around the hem on the bottom half of the kimono. Worn with a fukuro obi, often decorated in gold or silver thread, this kimono is worn by married women for formal occasions such as weddings. Its elegance is enhanced by a crisp white barely-visible undergarment that sharply defines the collar and lines of this kimono.
Irotomesode - a formal kimono worn by married or single women in different colours with decoration on the bottom half of the kimono around the hem. This kimono is worn with a fukuro obi and may feature 1, 3 or 5 crests. It is worn to weddings, tea ceremonies and other important events.

Bridal kimono

There are a couple of special kimono that are worn by a bride on her wedding day. These kimono are elaborately woven and decorated - not to mention heavy!

Uchikake - an elaborately decorated full-length outer robe that forms part of a traditional bridal outfit. It has long sleeves and wadding at the hem to weigh it down where it trails along the ground.
Kakeshita - another elaborately decorated kimono that is worn under the uchikake. This robe is also full-length and has wadding at the hem.
Shiromuku - a white bridal uchikake kimono.