Dictionary of kimono symbols and patterns
Every detail on a Japanese kimono or obi is carefully selected. The designs represent the feelings of the person wearing them, and signify the wearer’s awareness of their setting.
Japanese flowers
Flowers and floral patterns are common in kimono motifs.
The Japanese language of flowers ‘Hanakotoba’ lends each bloom a meaning. Flowers convey messages about the wearer via their clothing. They are also seasonal, as are the kimono and other items that feature them.
Seasonality is celebrated in Japan and emphasis is put on appreciating things that only last a short time - the idea of ‘mono no aware’. Kimono with particular floral motifs are intended to be worn only when those flowers are blooming, or just about to bloom. This shows appreciation, sparks enjoyment, and shows that the wearer is up-to-date.
Flowers with heavy symbolism are often worn out of season. When they are, they’re typically stylised, with more realistic depictions used for the actual flowering season.
Bellflower (kikyō)
When to wear: Late summer to early autumn, when blooming.
Meaning: The bellflower has romantic undertones, representing unchanging love and steadfast loyalty. It has a simple beauty and a soft purple colour that inspires a sensation of coolness in the late summer heat.
Camellia (tsubaki)
When to wear: Larger, more realistic designs are worn during the winter blooming season. Stylised designs are sometimes worn throughout the year.
Meaning: Camellias display grace, dignity, and modesty, with quiet strength and kindness.
Red and pink camellias are loved for the warmth their colours bring to cold months, striking a beautiful contrast against snow. That and their evergreen nature remind us that even in the cold depths of winter, life perseveres. (Red camellias were considered bad luck for samurai though and were actively avoided due to the way they dropped entire flowers at once.)
For ancient Japanese people, this perseverance led to the belief that the camellia was a sacred tree with mystical powers which could offer protection from evil. Though not as popular as other flowers, the camellia was very popular in the Edo period (1603 to 1838), leading to the cultivation and breeding of many new varieties.
Cherry blossom (sakura)
When to wear: During the very short blooming season at the beginning of spring.
Meaning: Cherry blossoms embody the concept of ‘mono no aware; the beauty of ephemeral things. The blossoms inspire reflection on the sudden renewal of life and appreciation of fleeting beauty. Kimono featuring them are strictly only worn in the short 2 to 3 week blooming season each year.
Although cherry blossoms have long been treasured in Japan, kimono patterns featuring cherry blossom have only become common very recently. Their popularity grew with advances in production that made kimono more affordable.
For many women outside high society in pre-industrial Japan, the cost of a kimono was too high for clothing that could only be worn for a few weeks per year. Instead, women celebrated the blossoms by purchasing smaller, cheaper items with sakura motifs, or by making seasonal treats.
Now that they are more commonly available, cherry blossoms are worn broadly, especially for flower viewing festivals and other special occasions during the blooming season.
Sakura are also sometimes worn out of season, to special occasions celebrating fresh starts and new beginnings, such as graduations.
Chrysanthemum (kiku)
When to wear: Autumn, during harvest time. Due to its strong symbolism, it is often worn out of season and for more formal occasions.
Meaning: The chrysanthemum is the highest-ranking of all floral motifs. It is the crest flower of the imperial family and the national flower of Japan.
Chrysanthemums are auspicious, ward off evil, and symbolise longevity, nobility, and prosperity. Stylised chrysanthemums are a popular symbol at festivals and as decoration on temples.
Variations:
- Oriedakiku: chrysanthemums attached to stems
- Tatekikumon: chrysanthemums standing upright
- Kikusui: Chrysanthemums and flowing water, symbolises longevity and prosperity, common in family crests and formal settings
- Kikumagaki: Chrysanthemums with a lattice or fence design
- Kouringiku: Extremely abstract and simplified, round chrysanthemums
- Rangiku: Chrysanthemums drawn with exaggerated long, thin petals
- Mujina-giku: small petals drawn densely
- Kiko no maru: stylised chrysanthemums in a highly circular form
Hydrangea (ajisai)
When to wear: During summer blooming, a symbol of the rainy season.
Meaning: The cool colours of hydrangea evoke relief from the summer heat. They are historically a less common design. The samurai class saw their ability to change colours as dishonourable. Conversely, the bunches of little flowers clustered together are also sometimes interpreted as meaning ‘family’ or ‘loyalty’.
Irises (kakitsubata, ayame, shobu)
When to wear: During blooming in summer. Irises are also popular motifs for ‘tango no sekku’ (Boys’ Day Festival).
Meaning: The leaves of an iris look like blades, and so they were especially popular among the samurai class and are thought to embody samurai values. They represent protection (especially for children, or from evil spirits), strength and purity.
Morning glory (asagao)
When to wear: Summer during blooming.
Meaning: Morning glory also embodies the concept of ‘mono no aware’, with flowers opening each day and closing each night. The openness of the flower in a design can set the piece at a time of day, dictating when to wear it. Morning glories also symbolise short lived love and fleeting beauty.
Paulownia (kiri)
When to wear: Worn to denote authority and status, not a seasonal marker.
Meaning: Paulownia is a fast-growing tree and are the only tree a phoenix will land on. Its quick growth lends it the meanings ‘future prosperity’ and fertility.
Historically, paulownia were planted when a baby girl was born for protection and good luck (and are sometimes called ‘princess trees’). When she married, its wood was used to make items for her dowry.
The design and the tree itself are closely tied to high rank and governance.
Peony (botan)
When to wear: Spring and summer, though mostly symbolic.
Meaning: Known as the ‘king of a hundred flowers’, peonies are associated with wealth, prosperity, strength, and beauty (especially feminine beauty). They are often used on formal kimono for significant events such as weddings.
Varieties: Winter-blooming peony (kan-botan), demonstrates grace amid the cold and is worn in winter.
Pinks (nadeshiko)
When to wear: Autumn
Meaning: A symbol of femininity and maternal love not commonly seen outside of ‘Seven Flowers of Autumn’ designs.
Plum blossom (ume)
When to wear: Winter-spring during blooming.
Meaning: Known as the ‘first flower of the new year’, it is one of the few flowers to bloom during late winter.
Ume represents resilience, optimism, endurance, renewal, encouragement, and the arrival of spring. It is a favourite at New Year and at other celebrations of new beginnings, to embody resilience and optimism for the future.
Wisteria (fuji)
When to wear: Spring and early summer.
Meaning: Wisteria often features at tea ceremonies and formal gatherings, showing elegance and gracefulness. It is also associated with romantic love, making it popular amongst brides and young women.
Exotic flowers
When Japan opened up to the rest of the world towards the end of the Edo period, there was increased cultural exchange with the West. The demand for exotic and beautiful Japanese goods in Europe, such as silk fabrics, led to the creation of new products designed to suit foreign tastes. Likewise beautiful foreign imagery made its way back to Japan.
To some, these new flowers were fresh and exciting. Wearing them showed that the wearer was modern - excited by foreign things and eager to embrace them.
For others, there was trepidation. Traditional designs could be worn to show Japanese pride and reticence to the dilution and selling of Japanese tradition to western influence. Japan's victory in the Russo-Japanese War in 1905 also saw a sense of national pride expressed in dramatic kimono designs that contained traditional elements from previous eras.
These 'mixed' feelings towards kimono designs with western motifs meant producers could not be certain which designs would sell. Demand was unpredictable, so sellers continued to make kimono with traditional designs, but made kimono with foreign designs to order.
Some of the most popular and common motifs are listed below. The less common ones, such as narcissus, dahlias, tulips, lily-of-the-valley and poppies are usually hidden amongst other seasonal flowers.
Rose (bara)
Roses were not worn seasonally. Instead, they were associated with love and strength, and often worn as statements of interest in the West. They gained huge popularity during the ‘Taisho Roman’ period, a western-inspired cultural and intellectual movement of Japanese romanticism during the Taisho era (1912 to 1926).
At first, roses were depicted as very lifelike, alongside other classical western flowers. Later, foreign trends such as art deco and art nouveau made their way to Japan and rose designs became more abstract.
Orchid
Orchids were also more of a personal statement than a seasonal celebration. Rare and delicate, they symbolise perfection. Orchids, especially ‘Cattleya’, became very popular alongside roses in the post-war boom.
Sunflower (Himawari)
Sunflowers were introduced to Japan in the late 1600s. Worn in summer, they capture the warmth of the season. They are sometimes considered to represent ‘passion’, but are worn more to celebrate the season.
Plants, fruits and trees
Plants are used in the same way as flowers when it comes to motifs and designs. Some are seasonal celebrations that are worn only when the time is right. Others are purely symbolic. Many are both - depicted realistically during the viewing season and more abstractly when used in non-seasonal symbolism.
Bamboo (take)
When to wear: Winter because it is evergreen (representing endurance during cold months), but worn more symbolically than seasonally. Its reputation for fast growth make it a popular new years decoration.
Meaning: Bamboo was popular with samurai due to its representation of strength, flexibility and resilience. It is worn by those who wish to convey inner strength and grace. Strong yet flexible while straight and upright, representing a robust, determined and resolute spirit. Bamboo bends without breaking, maintaining strength whilst adapting to circumstances.
Bush clover (hagi)
When to wear: September, as one of the seven flowers of autumn. Also seen on summer kimono and obi.
It is the plant most associated with autumn, beloved since ancient times.
Fruits, crops, and nuts
Many different kinds of fruits, nuts, and crops are worn in autumn, especially around harvest time. They symbolise abundance, bring good luck for harvests and encourage prosperity.
Variations:
- Chestnuts (kuri no mi): represents the fruits of autumn and symbolises abundance and wealth.
- Rice ears (ine): symbolise the autumn harvest, auspicious.
- Grapes (budo): symbolise abundance and prosperity, auspicious, represents perpetuation of the family line, can be worn at other times of year when less realistic.
- Persimmons: symbolises abundance and harvest. Worn to harvest festivals or in autumn in general.
Ginko (icho)
When to wear: Autumn, when its leaves are turning gold and falling.
Meaning: Ginko is a symbol of divine protection, vitality and good luck. It is regarded as a sacred tree symbolising prosperity and longevity.
Ginko is renowned for its robustness and resistance to fire. It is often stylised and used on smaller accessories.
Ivy (tsuta)
When to wear: Purely symbolic
Meaning: Ivy represents prosperity and vitality, vigorous growth and flourishing life. When shown growing over war drums it is used to signify peace.
Maple leaves (momiji)
When to wear: Autumn - leaves peak in November, but it is considered tasteful to wear them in October a little ahead of time. But many designs can be worn all year round. The more realistic, the more strictly seasonal.
Meaning: Momiji symbolise advancement, autumn and the passage of the seasons. Quite traditional and used in formal dress, it shows beauty in change and transformation.
Variations:
- Tatsutagawa: a classic autumn scene showing maple leaves floating on flowing water in the Tatsuta river, used for more formal attire, especially in November, symbolises the deepening/late of autumn.
- Sakura-kaede (ofumon): cherry blossoms and maples. Worn in all seasons, represents harmony of all four seasons, auspicious.
- Shika-momiji: deer and maple leaves, evokes serene beauty and appreciation for natures quiet charm.
- Aokaede to momiji: red and green maple leaves. May express the same tree in 2 different seasons or separate trees. Represents the beauty of seasonal change, like pairing ume and sakura. Used in both spring and autumn to highlight the change of the leaves in each season.
Sacred bamboo (nandina or nanten)
When to wear: In winter for welcoming good luck at the start of the year. Its winter-ripening berries contrast nicely with snow.
Meaning: Not related to bamboo, the plant is used for new year decorations and as medicine. It is associated with the Japanese word for ‘turning misfortune or difficulties away’, so considered lucky, protective, and auspicious. Can transform troubles and make misfortune disappear, it also symbolises endurance as it is evergreen.
Grass blades (shibakusa)
When to wear: Very versatile, usually worn in autumn unless paired with water or snow.
Meaning: Generally decorative and used with other elements. Often used as a background or to fill out groups of growing flowers. Grass blades build scenes and make them more natural, adding movement and filling space.
Variations:
- Tsuyu-shiba: grass blades with dewdrops, in summer
- Yuki-mochi shibakusa: Snow-laden grass, sometimes also with dew in winter
Tachibana
When to wear: At new year for blessings for the family and the start of a bright year.
Meaning: Tachibana is a kind of citrus. It is evergreen and symbolises longevity, continuity, family and prosperity.
In the ancient Kyoto court, tachibana was often added to ceremonial clothing. It was considered auspicious and its fragrance was meant to attract good spirits and fortune. Still a noble and highly respected plant it is the only citrus thought to be native to Japan. The fruit is inedible but it has a lovely scent.
Weeping willow
Loved since ancient times, though only really seen draping over bridges and rivers in summer scenery.
Birds
Although the many Japanese bird motifs are worn to represent the season, most birds in Japan look similar at all times of year. Except for migratory birds, unlike flowers, most are also found year round. For this reasons, bird motifs often show behaviour to express their seasonality.
The behaviours of birds are more obvious than the behaviours of plants. Instead of promoting concepts such as ‘beauty’ or ‘wealth’, birds depicting specific behaviours represent more specific ideas. A pair of birds might suggest the wearer is looking for a romantic partner or a bird that mates for life might inspire wishes for a happy marriage.
Otherwise, seasonal behaviours are used to bring life to seasonal scenes. They add action and motion.
Birds in formation
When to wear: Autumn, during migration
Birds flying in triangular formations or large flocks are used during autumn when birds are migrating.
Birds of prey
When to wear: Symbolic
Birds of prey serve as symbols of power and ferocity. They became especially popular amongst warriors in the 1600s, who thought they represented masterful and deadly born hunters.
They are fairly uncommon motifs for kimono, almost exclusively seen on menswear, and only worn by men who identify with them. Around the time falconry came to the Japanese nobility from China, there was a brief spike in falcon motifs and falconry scenes.
Crane (tsuru)
When to wear: Mostly symbolic, but sometimes paired with seasonal flowers
The red-crowned crane is one of the most symbolic and sacred creatures in Japan. They bring good fortune and are believed to live for a thousand years, symbolising longevity.
When cranes are depicted in pairs, because they typically mate for life, they are also seen as symbols of fidelity, marital harmony, and enduring love. They are popular motifs at weddings and anniversaries for a long and happy marriage.
A pair of cranes may also be shown building a nest in a tree to symbolise perpetuating the family line.
Interestingly, cranes don’t nest or even perch in trees, instead preferring to construct large grass nests on the ground. They breed exclusively in cold-climate marshes, many of which were converted into farmland in the late 19th century which very nearly drove cranes to extinction, though the population has somewhat recovered thanks to legal protections and breeding program efforts.
Mandarin ducks (oshidori)
When to wear: Symbolic
Pairs of mandarin ducks are revered for similar reasons to pairs of cranes. Although they aren’t considered long-lived nor sacred, they do mate for life, making them a powerful symbol of unwavering loyalty and devotion in marriage.
Depicting a pair of mandarin ducks together on a kimono serves as a blessing for newly married couples.
Peacocks (kujaku)
When to wear: Decorative, not seasonal nor especially symbolic
Vaguely associated with nurturing, kindness, and good will, peacock designs rose to popularity relatively recently as one of the best-received western motifs due to their beauty.
Because of the length of their tails, peacock feathers are often shown in designs flowing from one part of the body to another to emphasize length.
Phoenix (ho-ou)
When to wear: Symbolic
The phoenix is a fantastical, mythical bird with diverse lore spanning across multiple continents. It is renowned for its ability to die and be reborn, making it a fitting name for our company!
There are many different beliefs about which parts of the bird resemble which other animal, so the appearance can vary greatly
The legend of the phoenix came over to Japan from China. Believed to be a good omen, signalling the end of turmoil or conflict, it brings good fortune and appears when everyone is happy and peaceful. According to legend, the phoenix will only perch in the branches of the paulownia, only eat bamboo shoots, and only drink sweet water.
The character for phoenix includes the symbol for ‘female’, so it is often used to symbolize the empress. It is also often associated with the imperial household in Japanese mythology.
It has many meanings, including good fortune, fertility, wisdom, loyalty, benevolence, and justice. Its good connotations make it a popular symbol for celebrations and weddings.
Plover (chidori)
When to wear: Seasonal and/or symbolic
The Japanese word for plover, chidori, means "a thousand birds" due to its habit of forming very large flocks. The birds move together, hunt amongst waves twice their size and can tough out fierce storms as a flock. They symbolise courage and determination, and the ability to overcome great challenges.
Because they are associated with waves, they are often added to ocean scenes worn in summer. In autumn they migrate and are often the birds depicted in formation.
Round sparrows (fukura-suzume)
When to wear: Late autumn to winter
For most of the year sparrows blend in with others birds. Typically they are not considered to have any outstanding symbolism though they are commonly depicted.
However, for the coldest months of the year they become one of the most delightful motifs. When winter comes around, sparrows fatten up as much as they can and puff their feathers out against the cold. This creates a very endearing form that is so very round and fluffy that the sparrow alone has a motif dedicated to its shape.
Aside from being completely charming, fat round sparrows are associated with abundance and good fortune. In case you needed any more convincing.
Spring and autumn birds
Little and large birds of all kinds, including migratory ones, are at their busiest and most abundant during breeding season in spring and foraging time in autumn.
Birds in groups, pairs and by themselves are commonly used to represent the seasons when exhibiting seasonal behaviour. Common scenes include posing with seasonal blossoms, foraging for seasonal foods and coupling up to build nests. Even when doing nothing, birds emphasize the joy of nature and add motion to designs. Some commonly seen species are silver eyes, doves, cuckoo, and pheasants.
Swans
When to wear: Not seasonal nor especially symbolic, shows some affinity for western culture.
Another popular western design which has carried over its romantic connotations. Swans showcase elegance and lifelong partnerships.
Water birds
When to wear: Summer
In summer evoking a sense of coolness is important, so scenes of pools, streams, and waves are all common. Artists add water birds such as gulls, cormorants and kingfishers to these scenes to add life and interest.
Animals
Birds, as the most commonly-encountered wild creatures in day-to-day life are the most common animals depicted in designs. Other easily-spotted creatures such as fish and insects are also often seen, whereas mammals, reptiles, and amphibians are found less frequently.
In Japan, deer, tanuki, dogs, snakes, tigers, foxes, boar, frogs and many more are worshipped as deities and are not appropriate for wearing.
Butterflies (chou)
When to wear: Symbolic
Much of the butterfly’s symbolism comes from its ability to turn from a meek caterpillar into a strong and eye-catching butterfly. It is a symbol of transformation, flourishing and growing into adulthood. It is a popular motif for young women on Coming of Age Day.
Whilst now it is almost exclusively worn by girls and women and considered a symbol of beauty and femininity, the butterfly was a popular icon for the clan crests of samurai families starting in the 12th century.
For the young men in these clans, the butterfly represented transformation and growth into a warrior and was a symbol of good luck. A butterfly was considered ‘lucky’ to transform into such a beautiful creature given its humble origins, a dream shared by all those who perceive themselves as less fortunate.
A pair of butterflies also represents marital harmony, since pairs stay close together during the breeding season. Conversely, they are also sometimes considered to represent fickleness, as they flutter from flower to flower.
Dragonfly (tombo, akitsu)
When to wear: Symbolic, summer water scenes and autumn harvests
Japan used to be known as Akitsushima, which means "the island of the dragonfly" as its main island resembles a couple of dragonflies.
As a symbol of summer the dragonfly was appreciated by samurai who used it as a symbol of strength, courage and victory. Dragonflies can only fly forward, as if they would never retreat from an enemy. They were even given the nickname “victory insect”.
Dragonflies are also associated with a good harvest as they thrive in rice paddies, linking them to the land and prosperity.
Koi
The Koi carp migrates up streams and rivers in order to reach its goal, symbolizing courage, perseverance, virility and triumph.
This decorative fish has beautifully colored scales and forms a very nice pattern on Japanese fabrics. The word koi in Japanese means "carp" but also "love" or "falling in love".
Carp streamers are flown in Japan for Children’s Day, a national holiday to celebrate the health, happiness and wellbeing of children.
Lobster/shrimp
Lobster, shrimp and other crustaceans are surprisingly common as symbols on kimono. A lobster shown with a curled tail is a sign of longevity, hence its appearance at feasts and celebrations both as food and decoration on celebratory wear.
Its thick plated armor is reminiscent of samurai armor, making it a symbol of good luck among warrior families.
Various insects
Insects often appear on casual and formal kimono designs as they're representative of water.
Dragonflies are one of the most common late summertime insects, while fireflies and crickets often appear too. More casual versions of this motif can often be seen on light, breezy summer yukatas.
Insects are common in summer kimono, to represent the sound of insects chirping on a summers night. Often they are shown with grass, rarely by themselves.